My day starts with my body waking up at 3am because it hasn’t adjusted to western standard time, which is 2 hours behind the time at home in Queensland. It’s beautiful staring up at the stars through my open tent. The world is quiet and, after finishing my book, I drift back to sleep for a few hours. I should mention that I was sweating profusely just lying in my tent at 3am.
After a lazy morning doing some work and finishing another book (this time an outdoor athlete’s training guide) I drive to Cosack, a historic ghost town.
I enjoy an hour driving up to each historic location and reading the signs. It’s hard to imagine the courage (or stupidity) of those early settlers. The signs and buildings told stories of pearlers, graziers, miners, mariners, business people and their families. I take the time to walk around ruins and relics, grateful that I am fit enough to enjoy it.
I follow the road down to Settlers Beach where I leave the car and take a walk. The beach is long, ending at a wide creek. The water’s edge is dotted with sand balls that the soldier crabs have dug out of their holes.
I dip my toes in the water. It’s hot enough to make a cup of tea. I’ve never felt seawater like it before. The water here gets caught in tidal pools at low tide and perhaps this causes the heat. It fascinates me so I keep walking in the water.
I walk for half an hour, following the water’s edge. There’s only one other person on the beach; a woman walking her dog who is walking back to her car. To my right, the clear blue water stretches for miles. To my left the flat flood plains shimmer into the distance. I can easily imagine a lost explorer going mad out there under the baking hot sun.
On the horizon I see lines of cargo vessels making their way into one of the mining ports. The line is never-ending and I wonder whether today’s towns will go the way of Cosack after the ore, gold and gas run out.
After my half hour walk back to the car I drive up the headland to a lookout. The view would have knocked my sock off if I’d been wearing any. I am surrounded by near deserted red rock country and impossibly blue waters dotted with small islands. It’s a magic place.
I eat a lunch of crackers with tuna at a shaded picnic table further down the road. The solitude is divine. Then I drive back to Point Samson’s Honeymoon Cove where I submerged myself in the cool clear ocean waters for about 2 hours. It’s been a glorious day.